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Vulcano: "new" low calories non-melting chocolate launched by Swiss firm. Is it really "new"?

Swiss firm Barry Callebaut launched what is presented as an innovative kind of chocolate which melts at 55 degrees Celsius compared with the normal 37 degrees – or body temperature and is also infused with air bubbles to reduce the calorie count. They claim to have found a way tweaking cocoa butter to make it more resistant to heat and use less of the melt-inducing ingredients to make the product. They called it: Vulcano.
The company hopes its new chocolate will appeal to figure-conscious consumers and due to its firmness under heat pressure, it is believed that it should go down well in hotter countries such as India and China.

Now as a person who knows Modica's traditional chocolate and its characteristics I am bewildered and surprised about the news. I do not want this to sound as the person from the Sicilian town defending the "local product" made by "local people", firstly, because who knows me well knows also that this is not my way of thinking and, secondly, because Modica's chocolate and its producers do not need any defence, the product speaks for itself.

I take Modica's chocolate example just as a way to stop for a minute and think about how far we have moved from nature and the simplicity of its wonderful products.
In Modica, chocolate is still made the same way the ancient Aztecs made it in Mexico and its tradition dates back to the 16th century. The technique was brought over by the Spaniards who in turn learned about it in what is now Mexico. In Modica the process has been maintained much truer to original intents so you get chocolate that is made straight from the cacao beans, with no added cocoa butter or soy lecithin and .......surprise, surprise it does not melt in hot climates and is low on calories.

We even seem to have forgotten that cocoa, and then chocolate (cocoa with added sugar), came from Mexico, isn't that a hot climate country?
As I read the news my mind went back to my trip to Mexico and to an old Mexican lady sitting outside Puebla's Cathedral trying to sell her homemade round shaped chocolate "Chocolate Casero". My Mexican friends told me not to go near it, "that is not the chocolate you like!", meaning that is not the industrial product with added ingredients everyone is used to now. I had to explain that this was simply like the chocolate I grew up with. Go tell that lady that someone has now "discovered" a way of tweaking cocoa butter to get a "new" product that does not melt and is low on calories!
Is it really a case that the product name they came up with is Vulcano, live aside Mount Etna which anyway is 1h1/2 from Modica, but what about Popocatepetl volcano in Puebla, home to Mexican chocolate and Mole Poblano?

Written on
July 17, 2009
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